Route 501 to Route 183

November 24
9.3 Miles
Tom, Shannon, Wyatt and Mike

A brisk morning on the ridge of Blue Mountain.  Temperatures hovering in the low 20s, wind gusts up to 20 mph, and the sun attempting to break through as we started out from Route 183 and walked south towards Route 501.   This was another leap-frog hike, as we did not go the full 11.3 miles that would have taken us to where we left off last time.  So, we have two segments to make up on future dates.

The elevation along this section ranges from from approximately 1250 feet to 1650 feet, but with no steep inclines.  Even so, the hike was strenuous.  The four of us felt this section was the “rockiest” of the hikes we have made in Pennsylvania thus far.   It seems that each section has more rocks than the previous one, and in addition to the rocks along the trail, there were several boulder fields along the way.  More on that later.

 Shortly after starting the hike, we came to the historical plaque that marks the site of Fort Dietrich Snyder, which was one of the Indian lookouts placed along the Blue Mountain during the period of the French and Indian War.   Atop these ridges, early settlers kept an eye out for approaching Indians and would warn the farmers and families who lived in the valley below.  It was dangerous, and often deadly, for these inhabitants, and some interesting history of this Fort and the others in the region can be found in this interesting blogpost: http://schuylkillcountymilitaryhistory.blogspot.com/2007/11/french-and-indian-war.html

Indeed, the vistas are incredible—and one can see for miles in any direction.  With the passage of 350 years since those early settlers kept an eye out for Indians, there is now only serenity to be found in enjoying the view from atop the large rocks along the way.

 Bear hunting is in season, and we walked on State Game Games, but being it was a Sunday we had no worry either for present-day hunters and did not wear orange blazen on our clothing.   In fact, the only wildlife we saw was a turkey vulture who refused to fly away while we approached an overlook.  The vulture noted our presence, but Tom believed he may have been a juvenile given his indifference (see him in pic at left).  We did pass a number of Boy Scouts who were on an overnight hike, but few others were enjoying the Trail on this day.

Now, back to the boulder fields.  The question that was raised more than once along the hike,  “How did these boulder fields form?”.  From an article in the Reading Eagle, this is the explanation:

 Imagine, millions of years ago, a tundralike atmosphere cloaking Berks County. The Blue Mountains, which framed the northern border of Berks, rose above the landscape.

While the glaciers of the Ice Age never reached into Berks, the frigid conditions impacted areas this far south, said Noel Potter, a retired geologist who taught at Dickinson College in Carlisle.

The extreme cold and subsequent thawing caused cracks in the rocks atop the mountain, breaking pieces off and sending them downhill, Potter said. At the time, the mountain surface was a soupy, muddy mess, but the ground beneath was frozen.

That allowed the rocks to slide downhill, said Potter, who has studied the Blue Rocks formation.

As the boulders tumbled down the mountainside, water washed out the soil, preventing vegetation from taking hold. To this day, no trees or grass can be found among the rocks.

So, we can thank the Ice Age of a few million years ago for providing the sore feet we felt on this brisk November day.   As it is Thanksgiving week though, we are reminded of how thankful we are to be spending time together in Penn’s Woods.

Swatara Gap to Route 645

September 8
9.5 miles

Tom, Shannon, Wyatt, Rich and Mike

Our first “leapfrog” hike.  We skipped the 16 mile stretch that would have come after our last hike because that would require an overnight that our schedule did not permit.  So, we hiked on a beautiful Sunday morning, in a southwesterly direction atop Blue Mountain from Route 645 to Swatara Gap.

What began as a fairly smooth path turned rockier as our walk progressed, and remained so for most of the duration.  When the rocks subsided in sections, ferns were everywhere, and the trail seemed overgrown and narrow—as if hikers had not tramped down the path.   But, indeed, several hikers were out, and what seemed to be a few thru or long-distance hikers.  We didn’t have a chance to talk to them, but I am guessing based on sight and smell—for they had not bathed in some time!

Wyatt was ever the trooper and there was no lag in the group—despite the terrain.   Along the way were two very picturesque overlooks of the valley below—and the day was gorgeous.   If there was a day that I thought we would see a bear, or some wildlife, that was it---but there were no sightings.

As we neared Swatara Gap, the steep decline of the trail put the shock absorbers in our human knee ligaments to the test (and I felt it for a few days afterwards).  Overall on this hike, the trail descends from an elevation of 1500 feet to 500 feet, and the last mile is half of that 1000 foot descent.

Nearer to the level ground, we passed under the high overpasses of Route 81 and came upon a beautiful bridge that transverses the Swatara Creek.  There are several trails in this area, and they make an excellent day hike.   For those interested in exploring the waterway, the Swatara Creek River Trail is a recreational waterway that runs from Pine Grove to Middletown.  In fact, the first weekend in May is known as the “Swatara Sojourn”, and many canoeists and kayakers make the trip during that weekend of food and fun.

After our wonderful day of hiking, Tom took a bus to D.C., and Shannon, Wyatt and Rich headed for Pittsburgh.  

Including the 16 we have to do behind us, we have about 123 miles to go!  

Rt. 225 to Rt. 325

June 30, 2013
9.5 Miles
Tom, Rich, Doug, Wyatt and Mike

 It was a day of cicadas and snakes on the Appalachian Trail, as we hiked along the ridge of Peter’s Mountain.

"Crickets and Cicadas sing a rare and different tune”.  This Grateful Dead lyric from the song “Terrapin Station” came to my mind more than once during our hike along the top of Peter’s Mountain, as the constant hum of the 17 year cicadas---formally known as the Magicicada Brood II--could be heard throughout the day and many could be seen in the brush and the trees along the trail.  We wondered aloud about the mysteries of the cicada—most specifically that they emerge from the ground after 17 years, climb a tree to break from their shell, and live for about two weeks before laying eggs and starting the process all over again for a new generation.

Along this scenic portion of the A.T., we were happy that Doug joined us for his first hike with our group.  Doug is Wyatt’s father, lives in Pittsburgh, and made the early morning trip with Tom, Mona, Rich and Wyatt.   Once again, Mona served as our vital transportation support person—and spent some of the day shopping at the nearby “Old Sled Works”, a wonderful antique mall near downtown Duncannon.  Despite the heat and humidity, we kept a good pace—about 2 miles per hour. 

The views along this section are incredible, and we took several breaks to look at the valley below and Second Mountain in the distance.  We also enjoyed a break at the Peter’s Mountain shelter.  It’s a well-constructed building and one will notice the strings hanging from the ceiling—each attached to a plastic water bottle cut in half. For those hikers spending the night, the plastic keeps mice from getting into backpacks.  Of course, mice are still known to climb over hikers as they sleep on the floor the shelter---something none of us were eager to experience.  


While at the shelter, we met a thru-hiker from Georgia who uses the trail name “Bubba Gump”.  A young guy in college, “Bubba” had started in Georgia in early April and was hoping to reach Maine before starting school again in the Fall.  He had avoided a number of spring snow storms, and was making good progress—sometimes covering 20-30 miles per day.

As we hiked near the Shikellimy Rocks (Named for Chief Shikellamy of the Iroquios) we met a hiker named Steve who was enjoying the view and was happy to show us the snakes that were resting under ledges and in between the rock crevices.   Thus far in Pennsylvania, we had only seen one snake—a black rat---and despite the signs about timber rattlesnakes, we hadn’t encountered any.   That would all change on this hike.  Steve brought us to the top of a ledge and showed us where a copperhead was resting beneath.  A short walk from there, we found a rattlesnake in the crevice of a rock, and when we tossed a small twig near him, he demonstrated the use of his rattle—which was a real treat as we were out of his strike range!   We also saw a black rat snake resting near another pile of rocks, so it was a “three-snake-day” for us on the trail.   We hope that any future encounters with snakes will be from the same safe distance!

Our hike ended with a brief rain shower as we made the 800 foot descent down to Clarks Valley and Rt. 325.   Doug and Wyatt enjoyed some time in the cool waters of Clarks Creek before Mona picked us up and we headed back.  

As Tom reminded us at one of the overlooks, we are privileged to enjoy the beauty of the Appalachian Trail, and we were, indeed, privileged to spend a great day amongst friends.

129 miles to go!

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

 

 

 

 

Duncannon to Rt. 225

April 21, 2013

10 Miles
Tom, Molly, Shannon, Wyatt, Mike and Dakota

On a beautiful spring morning we started out in downtown Duncannon—took our picture in front of the famous Doyle Hotel—and began walking through the picturesque streets and then first over the Juniata River and moments later over the Susquehanna River on the Clarks Ferry Bridge.  

As a plaque on the bridge states, the pioneer Robert Clark operated a ferry along this section of the river in the days before a dam and canal system were operated by the Commonwealth, and later by the Pennsylvania Railroad.   Finally, the Clarks Ferry Bridge was constructed in 1925.

After a few miles in town and over the bridge, we came alongside the railroad tracks on the Dauphin County side of the river and posed for a picture before beginning the steep ascent up Peter’s Mountain.  The 2 miles of uphill switchbacks required some careful navigating, as the path began to get rockier as we approached the ridge.  Each lookout along the way provided a clear panoramic view of the Susquehanna Valley below, both across the river to Duncannon—and down the valley to Harrisburg.

Most notable on the way up were the ruins of the old Berkeheimer farm that had once inhabited the terraced side of the mountain.  The foundation stones of an old mule barn were all that remained of the homestead, but so well constructed and so large the stones that they are firmly locked in place all these decades later.

 

Atop the ridge, we stopped for a short break and met a gentleman who regularly hikes this section of the Trail and is involved with the Duncannon Appalachian Trail Community (DATC).  He gave us his business card, with the website to find out more about the annual festival that takes place on June 1.  For more information, visit: www.duncannonatc.org

Also, while taking a break on the ridge—and in anticipation of my 39^th birthday in a few days, my hiking companions sang a beautiful rendition of “Happy Birthday to You”, and I enjoyed a scrumptious muffin that Mona had baked for the occassion.  Thank you Mona!

For the next four miles, the Trail straddles the ridge—literally where the top boulders push out of the Earth—so it is not smooth walking and our regular pace was slowed quite a bit.

In this section of the Trail is located the Clarks Ferry Shelter, and the first privy or “outhouse” that I could recall since we started hiking at the Maryland border.    The original Peter’s Mountain Shelter in this area was built Earl "Crazy One" Shaffer, who is recognized as the first thru hiker of the Appalachian Trail.  (Mr Shaffer became the first northbound thru hiker in 1948 and the first southbound thru hiker in 1965.)  He also completed another northbound thru hike at the age of 79 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of his first AT thru hike. 

Interestingly, the shelter he built is now in the Appalachian Trail Museum. The current structure was built in 1994 and sits about 300 yards off the Trail.

Indeed, a great hike on a beautiful day, and a wonderful way to celebrate my birthday with friends.

 

 

Rt. 850 to Duncannon

March 17, 2013
8.5 Miles
Tom, Molly, Wyatt, Mike and Dakota

The Pittsburgh crew of Tom, Molly, Wyatt came out on Sunday morning and we were hiking from Rt. 850 by 10:20 a.m.   We headed north to Duncannon over Cove Mountain—through the state game lands that cover almost the entire section of this segment.  Joining us for the first time—and leading the way---was Dakota, a 6 year old Shepard/Chow mix that Molly rescued from the Humane Society.   

The trail ascends nearly 700 feet about 1.5 miles from Rt. 850 and stays level for about 4 miles along the top of Cove Mountain.  On this St. Patrick’s Day hike, there were no shamrocks to be found along the trail—only rocks.  Lots of rocks.   Because of this, we spent much of the hike looking down at our feet--navigating over the rocks that had been made slippery by the 2-3 inches of snow that covered the length of the ridge.

There were a number of hikers on the trail, but there was little wildlife evident along the way—although Molly spotted a large turkey vulture sitting on a tree limb about 30 yards away from us.   And, while we didn’t see a Pileated Woodpecker, Wyatt enjoyed seeing the holes it carved into some of the trees along the trail.   The Pileated Woodpecker makes large, rectangular shaped holes as it searches for insects on which to feast.  (Credit and thanks to Amy Weidensaul for identifying the woodpecker).  More info on the Pileated can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pileated_Woodpecker

Near the end of the hike along the top of Cove Mountain, we took in the sights at Hawk Rock.  From this vantage point, you can see nearly a hundred miles towards Blue Knob, and across the Susquehanna River to Peter’s Mountain.  Just below is Sherman’s Creek and the town of Duncannon.  It’s a beautiful spot for any day hikers and parking is available in a lot just below the mountain.

The 800 foot descent down from Cove Mountain is challenging under normal conditions, and with the snow and slippery rocks, it took us longer than usual, but was enjoyable nonetheless.

After nearly five hours on the trail, we arrived at our car in Duncannon.  This quaint town is officially designated as an Appalachian Trail Community, and the Doyle Hotel is a well-known stop for thru hikers looking for inexpensive food, a warm shower, and a fairly priced room for the night.  http://www.appalachiantrail.org/what-we-do/community-engagement/appalachian-trail-communities/duncannon-pa

So, in the spirit of the difficult journeys that our Irish ancestors had made in the past—the Walsh and Murphy hiking clan celebrated St. Patrick’s Day with a journey of our own over Cove Mountain and towards the mighty Susquehanna River.

With just a few miles left before we cross the River and head in a northeasterly direction, we are about 147 miles from the New Jersey line!

Old Stone House Road to Rt. 850

11.1 miles
Tom and Mike

With a forecast calling for occasional snow flurries, temperatures hovering around 30 degrees, and 20 mph winds blowing, it was hard to blame the Pittsburgh crew—with the exception of Tom-- for deciding to forego the hike.

While he would have likely hiked either way, it helped that Tom was already passing through the area on Saturday evening—making a return trip from a speaking engagement.  We got an early start on Sunday---hiking in a southerly direction from Route 850 in Perry County to Old Stone House Road in the Cumberland Valley.  The elevation started around 700 feet, rose to about 1300 feet atop Blue Moutain, and then back to 500 feet in the Valley.   With some strong winds at the start, we kicked off the 2013 hiking season bundled up from head to toe.

Because of the weather, it was not surprising that we only met 9 people during the 11 mile segment.  3 were day hikers, there was a husband and wife out with their dogs, and another two were running the trail.  The two runners were taking a break high on the Blue Mountain ridge when we stopped to admire the view, and we learned that they are training for extreme running events.  One mentioned that he regularly competes in these races—which often exceed 50 miles—and therefore the 20 miles along the trail was seemingly just a warm up for him.

Most of the trail was in the woods and along treelines, so Tom and I were spared from most of the winds that were howling above us.  Most notable was that we passed under and over some of the major roads that intersect this part of the mid-state.  We walked over Interstate 81 and the Pennsylvania Turnpike—looking down on the cars zooming by--a juxtaposition of old and new ways of traveling. 

We also walked alongside the beautiful Conodoguinet Creek which leads to the Susquehanna River. The Indians gave it that name, which is translated as “a long way, with many bends”. Much of the A.T. in this area passes through what were Indian settlements and the trails used by them.  In fact, North Middlesex road was originally a Native American trail leading to Sterret's Gap.

When the early European settlers arrived in this area, they built flour and saw mills along the streams that feed into the Conodoguinet.  Among those who were granted a charter by William Penn was John Chambers—who named the village Middlesex, after the English county.

Near the end of the hike at Old Stone House Road, we came upon an old family cemetery belonging to the Chambers and Urie families.  Situated behind an elaborate iron fence, most of the tombstones have weathered beyond legibility. According to historical records, there are at least 17 family members buried there---almost all of whom all were interred before 1850.  If only for a moment, looking across the fields and at the original homes and barns still standing in the distance, you can get a glimpse of how those early inhabitants lived, and what they saw as they laid their loved ones to eternal rest.

Indeed, hiking the A.T. can teach us much about our history.  And, enjoying the conversation along the way, and also the quiet time of reflection, hopefully it teaches us something about ourselves and those who walk the miles with us.

Only 10 miles until we reach the mighty Susquehanna River at Duncannon.