November 18 (Boiling Springs to Old Stone House Road)

Tom, Molly, Shannon, Wyatt, Rich, Mike, Scott, Zane, Isabelle and Monty

6 miles

 An incredible day of hiking, and bird watching---with some new additions to our group---including my brother Scott, his children Zane and Isabelle, and Monty--my 7 year old Border Collie/Lab.

Our day began early, with the Philadelphia crew meeting us at 8am (Pittsburgh crew came in night before), for a hike time of 9am.   We started on Old Schoolhouse Road and headed south to Boiling Springs, a mostly flat walk of about 6 miles through fields and woods. 

The air was chilly—about 28 degrees at 9am---and frost was covering the fields as we hiked alongside cornfields and through fenced pastures.  As most of the the trail along this stretch of the Cumberland Valley winds through privately owned land, hikers are the grateful guests of family farmers who have allowed for passage through agreements made with the National Park Service and the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.   We are thankful to them for allowing us to pass on their land—and the scenery is spectacular.  As most of our hikes thus far have been in isolated woodlands, it was a welcome change to walk among the picturesque homesteads and beautiful barns that dot the landscape.

With the exception of one whitetail deer, the only other animals on the trail were a few dogs that Monty was happy to greet as they passed by with their owners.   This was his first hike with us, and his natural instincts to herd us provided Monty with a healthy workout—as he would go from the front of the group, and back, to keep us all together.

As usual, Wyatt was a trooper on the hike, and Zane and Isabelle did great as first-timers on the trail.  Our trek was kept to six miles because we scheduled a side-trip to watch migrating birds with some friends.  How this came to be, is the rest of the story.

Earlier in the year, Tom had recommended I read a book about the Appalachian Trail, written by the highly regarded naturalist Scott Weidensaul  (http://www.scottweidensaul.com).  Often, Tom and I refer books to each other, and I was looking forward to picking up a copy of this book.   Interestingly, only a few days after he suggested the book, I was meeting with several people to learn more about the work of the Pennsylvania Audubon Society and their efforts to engage students in outdoor learning experiences.   At this meeting, I mentioned to them about our hike along the trail, and the book I was looking forward to reading.   Much to my surprise, it turns out that one of the people I was meeting with was Audubon staff member Amy Weidensaul---the wife of the author!  So, on that day, we hatched our plan to organize a hawk watching side-trip to coincide with one of our hikes.  And, we agreed to not tell Tom that the author would be joining us.

So, back to our visit with them today.  We met at the Cliff Jones Field Station at Waggoners Gap (http://pa.audubon.org/waggoners-gap)  outside of Carlisle.  The 20 acre site is owned by Pennsylvania Audubon, and is a wonderful place to see the seasonal migration of hawks and golden eagles—among many other types of birds.  Daily bird counts are kept by a dedicated group of volunteers who spend hours each day atop the rocky ridge, and you can visit online websites to see the reports they compile.

The ridge is a short hike up from the parking lot, and once there we peered through binoculars and saw a few turkey vultures and hawks.  Some in pairs--and some solo--gliding in the light breeze, using the air uplifts to sail along for miles, or “Living on the Wind”, to use the title of one of Scott’s well known books.  The scenery was incredible as the lookout straddles Perry and Cumberland Counties, and as it was a clear day—we could see for miles in each direction.

It goes without saying---if you are going to bird watch---it helps to be joined by someone who can easily identify what you have spotted.   In our case, we went with two of the best.  Amy and Scott were the perfect hosts---sharing their vast knowledge and answering all of the questions that we first-timers had.  Zane, Isabelle and Wyatt can safely say that their first birding experience was a unique and memorable one.

The entire group was delighted to meet Scott and Amy, but none was more surprised than Tom—so it was worth the many months of waiting for this plan to unfold.   Our thanks to Amy and Scott for taking the time to be with us—and we hope to see them again along the trail.

In all, a wonderful day on the AT, and atop Waggoner’s Gap.   About 164 miles to go!

 

 

September 16 (Rt. 94 to Boiling Springs)

Tom, Rich, Molly, Shannon, Wyatt and Mike
8.8 miles

We started out early again this time, and the weather was nearly perfect.   Not surprisingly, there were lots of hikers out—and many dogs as well.  It was the usual gang, save for Mona who stayed back in Pittsburgh for a Steelers game.  (This required that we manage our own logistical support—not an easy thing and we hope she joins us again soon!)

We started in Boiling Springs and headed south to Rt. 94.  The town is known for its fresh water springs---the seventh largest spring in the Commonwealth with a flow of 11,000 gallons per minute.  For hikers, the town is known as the home of the ATC  Mid-Atlantic regional office.   The trail in Boiling Springs sits at an elevation of 500 feet---cutting directly through town and alongside the picturesque Children’s Lake.  Heading south, as we did, the trail meanders through cornfields before becoming a  6.5 mile stretch of peaks and valleys.   In all, there are 6 peaks.  If you add up the elevation in that stretch—it totals 2100 feet of going up, and 1900 of coming down.   Because of this, the 8.8 mile segment may feel about twice as long.  Despite this—it is a beautiful stretch of the AT.

When we arrived at the first peak (elevation of 1060 feet), we took a water break at the marker for “Center Point Knob”.  This marked the spot which was formerly the half-way point of the trail--the current half-way point is now south of this point—which we passed on a previous hike. To our surprise, passing us there was a hiker--carrying not only his pack—but also a guitar slung over his shoulder.  This was a first for us.  We asked if he took song requests—he laughed and made small talk—and headed north.

As we headed south along the Rocky Ridge, it became increasingly clear that acorn season was upon us.  Not only were oak trees in every direction shedding their seeds, but they seemed to be doing so right at the very moments we walked beneath their branches.   Obviously, acorns fall throughout the day and night----but a disproportionally high number pelted most of our group throughout the day—and some of us were hit several times.  Rich continued to remind us that he alone was spared from the assault of the acorns.

Aside from dodging falling acorns—this segment was something of an obstacle course.  While Pennsylvania is known as by AT hikers as "Rocksylvania", this was really the first segment of the trail where we had to use our hands to get up and down from rock formations over which the trail passed.  This was obviously easier for the adults than for seven-year old Wyatt, but he climbed up and down them with great ease and never asked for any help.

The rock formations are something to appreciate, and amazing to walk over, under and around.  Just after the Center Point Knob is a 20 acre ridge section known as the White Rocks, outcroppings of Antietam quartzite formed about 600 million years ago.   For the next few miles of Rocky Ridge, piles of boulders pop up along the way, some the size of small cars---others bigger than a suburban home--all having been traipsed and explored by area inhabitants and visitors for tens of thousands of years.

On our next water break, we presented Rich with three cupcakes and a lit candle in honor of his birthday.  Mona tipped us off to remember his birthday—thinking it was sometime this week—but we got lucky with it being his actual birthday.   So, a chorus of “Happy Birthday” and three cupcakes was as good as any trail hiker might expect.

Just before we crossed the stream around the 8 mile mark, we stopped on the footbridge for a drink.   The sight of Wyatt swinging on a Beech tree reminded Tom of his favorite poem, “Birches” by Robert Frost.  He asked me to look it up on my iPhone and recite it—which I did.   It’s an insightful poem about birches bending in ice storms, rememberances of being a boy and swinging from the limbs of birch trees—branches bending but not breaking—I guess it’s really all about life itself.  (read poem here: http://www.poetryfoundation.org/poem/173524)

After another great day on the trail, the last line of the poem says it all:

“One could do worse than be a swinger of birches”.

About 60 miles completed and about 170 to go.

August 26 (Fuller Lake to Rt. 94)

10.5 Miles
Tom, Molly, Shannon, Wyatt, Rich and Mike

The Pittsburgh crew came in on Saturday night, allowing us to get an earlier than normal start on Sunday---hitting the trail about 9:15 a.m.

We started at Rt. 94 and headed south back to Fuller Lake, in Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  Walking this route had us starting at about 1000 feet, climbing to 1500 feet, and then descending down to about 800 feet at the lake.

It was a muggy and buggy Sunday on the AT.  The highlights of our journey were the many caterpillar sightings---almost all of them noticed by Wyatt as we hiked along the trail.  His most interesting find, however, was the stick bug that was on the side of a tree when we stopped for a food/water break.

You can find out more about this very interesting insect by clicking on this link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phasmatodea

Another highlight was seeing a bear track in the area where the trail crosses over Rt. 34.   It was pretty fresh---but alas--no bear sightings for us on this day.

It felt great to be back on the trail after taking a few months off, and we are looking forward to getting back out again soon.   50 miles down, and 180 to go!

May 26 (Shippensburg Road to Fuller Lake)

9 miles
Tom, Rich, Molly, Mike, Shannon (part), Wyatt (part)

 

We started at Shippensburg Road again, and this time headed north to Fuller Lake in Pine Grove Furnace State Park (http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/stateparks/findapark/pinegrovefurnace)

At the start of the trail today, we met a “ridge runner” who works with the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) to help maintain the trail.  We were impressed with his friendly nature and helpful information—and the fact that he was doing good work on behalf of all of those who hike along the trail.  If you aren’t a member of the ATC, it’s a great organization and you can find out more by visiting their website: http://www.appalachiantrail.org/

The difference of a month since we had last been on the trial was immediately evident.  All around, vegetation had replaced open sections of ground, plants were in bloom, and the shade cover of the forest nearly blocked out the sky in most areas.   The shade was a great benefit because the temperatures hovered in the high 80s when we started out in the morning.

About a mile in, we hiked through the Tumbling Run Game Preserve, which is one of those privately owned portions of the trail---and the area was covered in blooming Mountain Laurel.  In Pennsylvania, its our state flower---having long ago been given that official designation by Governor Gifford Pinchot.

After hiking through the Preserve , the trail descends for the remainder of the way to Fuller Lake, going from 2000 feet at Shippensburg Road to about 800 feet near the lake.

This part of the trail is famous as the "half-way point" for thru-hikers--and the spot is marked by a large wooden sign.  We stopped to take a photo in front of it and talk to a thru-hiker who was also snapping a photo.  Tom signed our names in the guestbook that sits in a mailbox next to the sign.   As the sign points out, its 1090.5 miles to Springer Mountain, Georgia--and 1090.5 miles to Mt. Katahdin, Maine.  

The trail later passes Little Rocky Ridge and enters Pine Grove Furnace State Park—which is one of the most historical sections of the trail in Pennsylvania.   Starting in the late 1700s, pig iron was forged in this area and many of the oldest structures (or their ruins) still stand.   Perhaps the most impressive structure in this area is the old Ironmasters Mansion, which was built in 1829 by Peter Ege and had served as a hostel for many hikers over the years.   It has recently been restored by the Central Pennsylvania Conservancy (http://centralpaconservancy.org/node/335 )

The Appalachian Trail Museum is situated just up the road from the Mansion, and is a wonderful stop along the trail.   Through displays of pictures and artifacts, it tells the story of how the trail moved from a concept to reality in the early part of the 20^th century.  Interestingly, it also includes the most recent sign from Mt. Katahdin, where the trail ends in Maine.  The famous sign is replaced every dozen or so years, as it is gradually worn down by both the weather and the carvings of hikers names made into the wood.  (find out more here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Katahdin )

As Shannon and Wyatt had earlier been picked up by Mona and spent a few hours enjoying the lake—we met them there at the completion of our hike and left the park just as a thunderstorm threatened overhead.


A hot, but fun day of hiking--and we were happy to have Rich joining us again on the trail.  About 190 miles to go!

April 29 (Rt. 30 to Shippensburg Road)

11 miles
Tom, Molly, Wyatt, Mike, Shannon (part), Brandon (part)

The month of April was book-ended by our hikes—each ending at Route 30 trailhead.   Today we hiked from Shippensburg Road in a southerly route, and for the first time encountered a number of hikers –and some with dogs--along the way.

The Shippensburg Road trailhead sits at about 2000 feet and the path to Route 30 is mostly level—hovering the ridge for about 8 miles before a 2 mile decent to 1000 feet.   There are some beautiful plants that were beginning to appear, and also some streams and small ponds along the route.

Some hikers were enjoying the Birch Run Shelters when we arrived there, and our appetites were tested by the wonderful aromas coming from their cookware.  We decided to rest for a few minutes in the area of the shelter, and enjoyed the trail mix that Mona had packed for us.  As has become custom over the past few hikes, Wyatt enjoyed a SlimJim beef jerky  and cheese snack that has become his staple when we stop to rest.

We met our first “thru-hikers” at the shelter—a young couple who told us briefly about their travel plan.  They had started in Georgia in early March and expected to reach Maine by mid-July.  They said they were averaging 15-18 miles per day, a very respectable rate at which to travel.

Along with seeing more hikers and dogs than in previous hikes, we also came upon our first snake!  The common black snake (eastern rat, perhaps?) was almost mistaken (by me) for a long stick lying across the trail path (see picture at right).   Despite its size (about 4 feet), the black snake is harmless and didn’t pose a threat as we stopped to take a few pictures before he found his way up the branches of a large rhododendron .

Speaking of snakes, later in the hike we took pictures of the signs posted to remind hikers that the timber rattlesnakes along South Mountain are protected and therefore it is unlawful to harm or disturb them in any manner.

Like last time, Shannon and Brandon joined us for part of the trip.  And, this was the first segment that did not have Rich joining us.

April 1 (Old Forge Road to Rt. 30)

10 miles
Tom, Rich, Molly, Wyatt, Mike,  Shannon (part), Brandon (part)

As they say, success breeds success, and the same is true when hiking.   Having successfully completed 8 miles, the next segment from Route 30 back to Old Forge was longer, again a southerly route, and seemed like something we could accomplish with ease.  At 11 miles, it was 2 miles longer than the first trek, and we got a later start, but we knew that we would finish before dusk.  On this second leg of our trek, Shannon and Brandon joined us for part of the hike, and Molly was a new addition to our hiking team.

The trailhead sits at 1000 feet, later climbs to 2000, and then begins to slope back down to 1000 feet near the end.  At times, the trail hugged the ridge of the mountain and there were incredible rock formations—the geologic reminder that we were walking by millions of years of history.

About 8 miles into the hike, we passed Chimney Rock—another beautiful formation.  Tom and Wyatt took a few minutes to explore the cluster of rocks, while the rest of us looked out over the valley below South Mountain.

The trail is in the thick of Michaux State Forest, which is beautiful even in the early Spring.  Michaux spans three counties and totals more than 86,000 acres.  These timber lands are managed and supervised by PA Department of Conservation and Natural Resources (DCNR) Forest District Office staff.  You can find out more about Michaux and DCNR at this link: http://www.dcnr.state.pa.us/forestry/stateforests/michaux/index.htm

We were joined again by Shannon and Brandon nearing the end of our hike--and made a long descent down the mountain---and headed off for dinner at a nearby country restaurant. 

About 212 miles to go!

March 4 (PenMar to Old Forge Road)

8 miles
Tom, Rich, Shannon, Wyatt, Mike

If 11am sounds like a late start for our first day of hiking, it must be understood that the morning began much earlier than that for Tom, Shannon, Wyatt, Rich and Mona.  As they live three hours to the west, in Pittsburgh, their first journey of the day would be on the PA Turnpike—their second the trail—and their third the trip home.   For me (Mike) it was much easier—as I only had to travel a little more than an hour from my home in Harrisburg.

We met along the road east of Chambersburg and decided to head to Old Forge Road, and hike in a southerly direction for this first segment.  This may seem confusing, given that we are going from Maryland to New Jersey (south to north) but each consecutive segment can be hiked in either direction.  Primarily, we decided on the first day route as an attempt to ease into our hike.  By this, we would avoid the almost immediate steep ascent that begins in Pen Mar—and instead option for what would be a steep descent after a day on the trail.

There are few signs of life out on the AT in early March.   The ground was still bare, and the leaves had not yet appeared on the trees under which we hiked.  The trail was clearly marked though, and any obstructions--like fallen branches or trees--had been cleared, so it was evident that volunteers had likely been busy with maintenance projects throughout the mild winter.

Starting at 1000 feet above sea level at Old Forge Road, the first segment gradually rose to 1500 feet before taking a dip down to 1100, ascended again to 1700, and then ended in Pen Mar at 1200 feet.  The eight mile trek brought us past two shelters (Antietam and Deer Lick Run), which were both well maintained—and not surprisingly unoccupied at this time of year.

Most impressive for us hikers was the pace set by 7 year old Wyatt—who was leading the group more often than not—and who seemed tireless throughout.  After 8 miles, and the better part of the day spent along the trail, there was little doubt that Wyatt could have kept on going had we not reached the Mason-Dixon Line. 

While we hiked, Mona was out antiquing and shopping.  She had earlier provided the trail support we needed by packing some good food and snacks for us to enjoy.   She was there to meet us at the end of the day, in Pen Mar, ready to transport us back to our cars at Old Forge Road.  

The weather was ideal, and it was a great first day of hiking.   We had 8 miles under our belts, and about 222 to go!